In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto

Imagine walking into a supermarket in the 1980s. The shelves are packed not just with food, but with scientific promises. Boxes shout words like 'fiber,' 'cholesterol,' and 'saturated fat.' This marked a profound shift in how we think about food—not as something to enjoy or share, but as a collection of nutrients to manage. This shift, rooted in 19th-century science, began with the discovery that food is made up primarily of protein, fat, and carbohydrates. These macronutrients became the pillars of nutrition science, the chemical building blocks that promised to unlock the secrets of health.

Yet, this was only the beginning. Early in the 20th century, the discovery of vitamins—tiny molecules that could prevent diseases like scurvy and beriberi—added another layer to our understanding. These discoveries reinforced the idea that food could be broken down into essential parts, each with a specific role in our well-being. But this reductionist approach came with costs. Whole foods, rich with complex interactions and cultural significance, were overshadowed by isolated nutrients.

Political forces soon embraced this nutrient-centric view. In 1977, a government committee issued dietary goals that avoided naming specific foods to eat less of, fearing backlash from powerful industries. Instead, they focused on reducing saturated fat and cholesterol, invisible nutrients, rather than tangible foods like meat or dairy. This linguistic shift allowed industries to defend their products while the public received confusing messages.

As a result, the language of nutritionism—the belief that nutrients are the key to health—became dominant. This ideology, while seemingly scientific, obscured the complexity of diet, culture, and pleasure. It set the stage for the processed food revolution and the challenges we face today.

Understanding this history is crucial as we begin our journey to reclaim food and health. Now, let's delve deeper into what nutritionism really means and how it shapes our relationship with food.